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Diamonds · 6 min read

How to choose a diamond shape

Shape is the first thing anyone notices, and the decision that most shapes the character of a ring. Here is how to narrow eight options down to the one.
A ring worn on the hand

Shape is not cut

Before anything else, untangle two words that get used as if they mean the same thing. Shape is the outline of the diamond seen from above: round, oval, emerald. Cut is how precisely the facets are arranged to return light, and it is graded separately.A well-cut oval will always outshine a poorly cut one of the same shape. So choose the shape for its character, and hold cut quality high no matter which you land on.
ShapeThe outline
CutHow it returns light

The eight shapes, at a glance

Every shape carries a different feeling: some classic, some architectural, some soft. Here are the ones worth knowing. Tap oval or round to read them in full.
OvalLarger look, soft
RoundMost brilliant
EmeraldClean, art-deco
PearDistinctive
MarquiseElongating
CushionSoft, vintage
PrincessModern square
RadiantSparkle + edges

Oval, in detail

The oval is our most requested shape, and it is easy to see why. Because more of its surface faces up, it reads noticeably larger than a round diamond of the same carat. The elongated outline lengthens the finger, and it keeps almost all of the brilliance of a round brilliant while feeling a little more its own.It flatters nearly every hand and sits well in both delicate solitaires and wider settings. For many people, it is the shape that quietly wins.
One thing to watchEvery oval carries a faint dark band across its centre, called the bow-tie. In a well-cut stone it is barely there. Always ask to see an oval face-up, in normal light, before you commit. A photo can hide it.

Round brilliant, in detail

The round brilliant is the most studied cut in the world, refined over a century to return the maximum amount of light. It is the safe, timeless choice: the most sparkle of any shape, endlessly re-sellable, and never dated.The trade-off is price. A round wastes the most rough during cutting, so you pay a small premium per carat for that optimisation. If sparkle is your priority above all, it is worth it.

Matching shape to your hand

There is no wrong shape, only a few gentle guides. Elongated shapes such as oval, marquise, pear and emerald visually lengthen shorter fingers. Round and cushion sit beautifully on longer fingers.If you work with your hands, a lower-profile setting matters far more than the shape itself. Start an online consult and we will guide the rest.

How shape affects price

Two diamonds with the same carat, colour and clarity can differ in price purely by shape, and in how much size you actually see. Round costs the most because it wastes the most rough. Elongated shapes give you the most visible size for the same spend.
Approx. face-up size per dollar · round = 100
Round
100
Oval
115
Pear
118
Emerald
120
Indicative only. Lab-grown pricing shifts with the market; your consultation gives exact figures.
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